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Village no. 7: Enjoying “mosaltteum” in a village with the finest water?Samyang-dong (Aunt Young-ran & Young-hee Byun)
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“Mosaltteum” is the Jeju word for “sand bath.” The Samyang village with its fine, black sand and icy cold spring water is the perfect summer retreat. Visitors that come between mid-July and mid-August can enjoy mosaltteum with black sand, as well as cold spring water bath.
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- Village no. 7Enjoying “mosaltteum” in a village with the finest water?Samyang-dong (Aunt Young-ran & Young-hee Byun)
“Mosaltteum” is the Jeju word for “sand bath.” The Samyang village with its fine, black sand and icy cold spring water is the perfect summer retreat. Visitors that come between mid-July and mid-August can enjoy mosaltteum with black sand, as well as cold spring water bath.
The Samyang village, located at the end of east Jeju, may be a rather unfamiliar name to travelers. Although it’s a coastal village, it lacks the dazzling white beach sand that Hyeopjae-ri and Woljeong-ri are known for. But in the summertime, the black sand in the beach reveals its full beauty. Unlike the rough, chunky black sand of other beaches, the beach on Samyang Beach is fine and smooth. The glutinous texture of this black sand is perfect for mosaltteum (sand bath), something this village has long been famous for. Originally, mosaltteum was a seasonal custom of local villagers or haenyeo in their summer season when they rested. Starting from the 1990s, people from all over the country started to visit due to word of mouth that the black sand on Samyang Beach has a healing effect on the body. On the Samyang Beach, you can enjoy sand bath therapy from “sand bath specialists,” an occupation unique to this area. Here, two sand bath specialists, sisters Young-ran & Young-hee Byun, answer questions about mosaltteum, the black sand of Samyang Beach and the spring water, which are all part of their hometown’s traditional heritage.
We didn’t know that there was an occupation called “sand bath specialist” in Jeju. So, what does a sand bath specialist do?
Young-ran (the older sister) In order to do a proper sand bath, you have to bury your whole body in the sand. And that’s something you can’t do on your own. Besides, the sand on Samyang Beach is very smooth and soft, which makes it even harder to pile up properly. You know, just putting the sand on your body is not a proper sand bath. You have to dig a very deep hole first. And after the person lays down in the hole, you cover them with mud. While the customer is in the sand, I set up a tent so that they can rest in between sessions. Sweating too much can stress the body, so the customer must rest after a while. This process is repeated 3 times, for which I charge KRW 15,000.
When did you start working as sand bath specialists?
Young-hee (the younger sister) My sister and I were not born in Samyang, but we moved here after marrying men in this town. Young-ran taught me, after working as a sand bath specialist for over 30 years. Because of Young-ran’s health, I’ve taken over her job for the most part 10 years ago.
So, Samyang Village is most known for its sand baths.
Young-hee Yes. The black sand sets our beach apart from those of other villages. But there’s another thing?our water is also very popular. You’ll find a dock at the east of the coast. That’s where we have cold spring water. All the locals go there in the summer to swim in the cool water.
Young-ran It’s a shame that the amount of spring water has decreased so much. I mean, in the past there were many other spots where we had that. There were over 10 locations where spring water came out from the sand, but they’ve just dried up.
It is said that there is less spring water in Jeju overall. Do you think this is affecting your village, too?
Young-ran Of course. But it’s not just the spring water. The sand is changing as well. We know. Every year we dig the sand because of what we do for living. In the past, we could see the bedrock after digging a while, so we couldn’t dig any further, but nowadays there is sand no matter how deep we dig. Maybe it’s because of the new power plant at the eastern part of the coast... The tide changes when new structures are added to the coast. The marine ecosystem was damaged as a result. This caused many haenyeo from our town give up their occupation.
Do you have many customers this year?
Young-ran Since a few years ago, people coming for mosaltteum have decreased rapidly, which is really hard for me. In the past, we used to have 30 to 40 customers a day in this hole, and there were 3 more sand bath specialists on this coast. Back then, all 4 of us were so busy. Nowadays, my sister can handle all the customers easily even without my help. There are 15 customers a day, tops. It’s a pity. The sand bath is really good for your health.
Young-hee Just try it, and you’ll know. You really have to try. If you’re buried in the sand, the sand quickly heats up to 70℃ from the sun which causes your body to heat up and sweat in less than 10 minutes. You stand up, walk to the sea and wash the sand off your body. You’ll feel well and fit. Also, your skin becomes very smooth. Those suffering from atopic skin disease can also benefit from a sand bath. They feel much better, just by putting the hot sand on their skin.
Is there a reason why sand bath tourists are decreasing?
Young-ran Well, in the past, people didn’t go to the doctors as much. Even if they did, the doctors had no clue what was wrong with them. Every Jeju local knows that black sand baths are good for the health. Even the doctors would recommend the sand bath in Samyang if they couldn’t cure the patient. But nowadays, medicine has improved. There are more convenient ways to enjoy hot baths such as the jjimjilbang. I guess that’s why we have fewer customers.
Young-hee In the past, the customs around mosaltteum was also different. Mosaltteum was considered a medical therapy, so both sides showed more care. For example, those who came to receive mosaltteum held a rite to the gods, preparing a meal for them at the shore. They would pray for the gods to heal their disease. And then, they would book a room near the Samyang Beach for weeks and came to receive mosaltteum every day. On the beach, they buried themselves in the sand for 30 minutes, and then rested 2 hours, repeating the process all day long. Some even didn’t bother booking a room. Instead, they wanted to sleep in the very hole made for their mosaltteum during the day. You know, the black sand is actually quite warm in the night. Those people just prepared and ate their meals on the beach, and talked to each other about their conditions and illnesses. Everyone made friends that easily here, just like inpatients in the hospital would befriend each other quickly.
Do you have a word for those who wish to experience the sand bath at Samyang Beach?
Young-ran Mosaltteum is possible for just a month in the summertime. Before July 15, the sand is not warm enough, and after August 15 there are too many bugs in the sand. Recently, the weather has been rather unpredictable, but now is good. Don’t miss this season! We’ll “bury” you with care, so come visit us. (laughs)
Young-hee Samyang Village has lots to offer beside mosaltteum. We have a cold spring water bathhouse, and fishing is active near the dock. It’s cuttlefish season in the summer?it’s so popular, you won’t find a spot of your own unless you get there early. Also, try hiking the trail around Wondangbong. The view of the ocean from the top is beautiful. Lastly, don’t miss the Jeobzzakppyeo-guk (pork bone soup using front leg bones) sold beside the Circuit Road.
➊ The Famous Black Sand Mosaltteum on Samyang Beach
The black sand on Samyang Beach contains iron, which makes it much heavier and warmer than white sand. Furthermore, Samyang’s black sand is finer and smoother than black sand from other beaches, which makes it perfect for sand baths. Allow around 3 hours in order to enjoy black sand mosaltteum. Aunt Young-ran and Young-hee Byun recommend 3 sessions, each 10 - 15 minutes long, with at least 30 minutes of rest & cooling off in between. According to a customer, who wished to stay anonymous, his body felt lighter each time he went under the sand.
➋ Gareum dock: the locals’ favorite swimming spot
Locals from Samyang village prefer this dock to the beach because its spring water is fresh water. It’s also icy cold compared to the sea water, which has been under the hot summer sun all day. Just dipping your foot for a brief moment make numb it with coldness. Enjoy bathing in the spring water among locals. However, refrain jumping into the cold spring water immediately after the sand bath as this might tax your body. In this case, cooling off in the sea water first is a must.
➌ Enjoy indoors spring water bath for KRW 1,500?the village spring water bathhouse
As soon as you walk in, you can feel the cool air. It’s as if you’re walking into a refrigerator. Samyang1-dong village has built a bathhouse on the spring water, fully equipped with a clean, tiled spring water pool, mirrors, and showers. And the entrance fee is even cooler?it’s just KRW 1,500! If it gets too hot under the sun, it’s also a good idea to visit the bathhouse and relax in the shaded pool.
➍ A cozy walk up to the oreum: the Wondangbong trail
The Wondangbong is a relatively small oreum, not far from Samyang Beach. To get to the trail around Wondangbong, visitors must first reach the starting point, which is halfway up. The trail is covered with shade from lush trees, which makes it perfect for a walk, even on hot sunny days. The breathtaking view of the ocean on top of the oreum will surely touch your heart.
➎ Jeju-style health food: Hwaseong Restaurant’s Jeobzzakppyeo-guk
Nourishing yourself is crucial when you detox. After mosaltteum, you must eat healthily to preserve your strength. There is where Jeobzzakppyeo-guk comes into play! Jeobzzakppyeo-guk is a thick soup made with boiled pork rib and buckwheat. It’s an absolute specialty that every Jeju visitor should try. The Hwaseong Restaurant in Samyang-dong, where Aunt Young-ran and Young-hee are long-time regulars, serves excellent quality soup with a hearty, savory flavor.
Address: 383, Iljudong-ro, Jeju-si, Jeju-do / Phone: 064-755-0285 / Jeobzzakppyeo-guk KRW 8,000
- Notice
- ※ The above information was written on 2019-08-02. Please confirm the information prior to your trip.
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